Shoe lasting and welting machine



Feb. 3, 1942. E. w. KOLOSKE EEAL SHOE LASTING' AND WELTING MACHINE Filed men 25, 1941 2 Sheeas-Shet -1 Q ,Tz'uenibr Feb; 3-, 1942. E, w, KOLOSKE .ET AL 2,272,065,

' SHOE LASTING AND wsm'me mwnnm Filed Har ch 25, 1941 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 mawaia' w,

I The present invention relates to improvements in machines. for lastingand' sewing,-;shoes, 'and moreparticularly to, machines of eztyps disclosed in U. S. Letters-Patent No-{1246 993,-

granted June 24, 1941, on an application of James P.'Fredericksen, in which the outturned marginal portions of a shoe upper are fastened to the.

marginal portions of a thin unchanneled" midattachedto complete the shoelj In the machine of the Fredericksen patent-,a

line formed bythe meeting side-- and treadsu'r faces of the'last, the spacing ,of the-seamfrom I sole layer *or canvas-sheet before ango'uter s'ole is I W D' P NGMAC N Koloske, MilwaukeqWisl;and-Leon; p V I ard; S. Curtin,'ipBe lmont,:rMass assignors to 7 .United Shoe Maehinery'Corporation, Flemin ton, N. J;',' a} corpolra;tion of New Jerseyi v v Appl ioation March 25,-

" nc aimsg I i along] the breaklj line tensio'ning membersported against the ac vd a 'v' t :th rw h a shoe upper is lasted and sewntoathim -m lineomth'e lasttoithcltreadsurface of thelast J channeled midsole or a-sheetof'iwoven' txtile material mounted on the tread'i surface of alast;

The seam is inserted at a distance from the break said line being determinedbythe-position in which the shoe ispresented to' the machine by the' operator'during sewing, With this machine; the position of the I seem connecting the upper andj insole may be regulated by the operatorin -a' manner not possible where a heavychanneled in sole'is employedyand other advantagesresult;'

' both in connection with the subsequent stepsof manufacture and with th'e'jcompleted shee After on'the'outsole'and inside the completed shoe,

Another object of the-invention is'to pro iride a.

sewing the shoe on the machine of the patent; the outsole of the'shoe is most conveaniently attached by cementing or 'by thr-ough-andethrough fastenings; the exposed portions ofiwhich a pear shoe lasting and sewing machine witha guide I for directing a welt strip fintosuch' relation with the upper of, a shoe' and with a thinunchanv neled sheet as a midsole or inner'sole that the welt thebreak mm; of a last whichsupports the-upper connecting-the parts being regulated by the osi tion in which the shoeispresented tovthemachine during sewing. With these and other present invention contemplatestheprovision in" a" shoe lasting-i and SGWlhg ;machine operating II will be drawn, together with the'upper, around j and-sheet, the location of' the/seamand welt 1941;swarm;385,124: 1 v I sheet to gape gat I I I I I I breakli'ne onvthelast of means for directing a f I seam inserte v ordinarily {required for fthis t'ype of worl;

" "chinejparticularly welt owards the-point of-foperati'on of i thefstitohj; I

,formingf devicesat such anglei'that it isrsu-p niofthe 'stitch'fornn devices bythe-gapingfportionofthe upp rsmae I theuppen'around'theibreak by thef'pull 'of-the stitches insertedi As hereinafter idescribed," the stitch forming" devicescon sist of a nee'dle at one side of 'thework and 'a looper at-the ppesitei e-theWewbemmup; I

of the'jne'edle' as it on the last before; sewing,1- the welt isi 'dra 2 around the break 'li'ne ginto' a position with; i

" :grainsurfa'c e-in contact with the'uppertoapOsition after sewinggwherethe marginof't L forms: an; angular flange against'the, ed

.weltii j. Ihe completedseain vthus .sewn" compares j fanorablywin pappearancewith the best quality i ri- 1 d'b'y a curved"hook*ncedle machine -I With 'a curved, needle-sewing machine; the. 'stitchesiareset into the materials operated u 'mn i2 straightzfllecdlegma=. wne att m gawelt. With" the machine ofthe pres'ntiinVenti-on, thelineg of;

more? deeply than Lstitchesisdfiected out of the path 'ofjthe needle as "they are being tightened so assist in prop c'a i 'd th r e -m t e-ma v chine thefpo'sition 'ofthe welt guidejis inadead-' I iustable a d, asflin hejmachine-fofwthe'patent I "carryingthewelt' guide atone em, Other features of the invention consist of tain'novel constructions"; combinations 'and -arI-V I rangemerits of parts hereinafter" described-and claimed, fthejadjantagesVjofqwhich will qbe 'api I I in .whichiEiQ-Q ljf-is aq'view insideelevation', partly is a View; in front eleva nof aving upp Y 1 for, imparting'a stretchto v I theupper, an'd a mids ol'e' or innersole sheet at a 1 :distance fromf'thelas I I II v the tread 1 "surface Sid; "or; the II I I 'thataidepjfsearn 'sultsfwith*manyioi the a'dvalfitages; d

theu'pper tensioning 'me'anscomprises:

' hichjrotates on a stud p nt o th s kil e nfth 'er mm. t 'i 9 ow=f 11 d r ti n a co n draw ngs;

ing rolls and stitch forming devices of the machine illustrated in Fig. 1, indicating a portion of a shoe being operated upon partially in section; Fig. 3 is a detail view of one end of a tensioning roll supporting stud in the machine; Fig. 4 is a detail sectional view illustrating the manner of operation of the machine taken somewhat in ading practices. The corner portion of a last used in the construction of a shoe is indicated at 2 in Fig 5, an upper including the lining at 4, a midsole member in the form of a canvas sheet to which the upper is lasted at 6 and a welt at 8. The canvas sheet is unchanneled and not preformed any way, being cemented or tacked tothe bottom or tread sLu'face ID on the last with flexible marginal portions extending loosely beyond the edges'of a slightly beveled inner sole I 2 'also munted on the tread surface of the last beneath the canvas sheet. Before the lasting and sewing operations, the upper and lining also are temporarily secured in place, leaving the marginal portions extending free along a break line l4- of the last formed by the angle between the upper supporting or side surface I6 and the tread surface I0 of the last. -As thus far described, the construction of the shoe is similar to that disclosed in the patent above identified.

In order to construct a shoe, the outsole of which may be attached in a manner similar to Goodyear shoe making practices in the machine of the present invention, the'welt 8 is positioned so as to be included in the seam I8 connecting the upper and canvas sheet 6 in such a way that it is drawn from a positionwhereiit is supported at the side of the last, as indicated in Fig. 4, around the break line onto the tread surface of the last, together with the upper, by the pull of the stitches, as in Fig. 5. To obtain this result,

the position assumed by the free edge of the welt as it is led towards the sewing point in the machine is at an acute angle with the upper and the edgeof the welt through which the seam passes is supported by the upper against the action of the stitch forming devices in the machine (see Fig. 4) When supported in this man: ner, the pull of the stitches inserted produces an angular flange on the upper extending from the tread surface of the last, and lying against the edge of the welt being sewn, the grain surface on the welt lying parallel to the tread surface of the last so that the free edge of the welt may be sewed to the projecting marginal portion of an outsole fitted tothe shoe. The extending flange along the margin of the upper may be trimmed in the usual way before the outsole is fitted in place and the stitches of the seam I8 will appear to be similar to those inserted by a Goodyear inseam sewing machine.

The illustrated lasting and sewing machine is of the type disclosed in U. S. Letters Patent to Leveque No. 1,864,510 of June 21, 1932, except for the reduction in thickness and in width of the work support, according to the construction disclosed in the Fredericksen patent, and for the provision of a guide 20 for the welt 8. Briefly, the machine is provided with a pair'of upper tensioning rolls 22 and 24 acting with a continuous bite on the upper and canvas sheet or sole member a short distance from the break line l4 of the last to draw the marginal portions of the upper into conforming relation with the side surfaces of the last and to cause the upper and sheet to gape along the tread surface of the last in advance of the sewing point. The roll 22 is rotatably supported on a stud 26 having an enlargement at its forward end and is yieldingly pressed by a spring 28 towards the roll 24 to grip the parts operated upon. The stitch forming devices include a straight eye pointed needle 30 and a looper 32mounted to rotate concentrically with the axis of rotation of the roll 24, the shoe being supported in a position to cause the needle to operate in a path approximately parallel to the tread surface It) on the last. i Thewelt guide 26 is adjustably mounted on theenlargement at the free end of the stud 26, which enlargement has alug portion for supporting a block 34 having a vertical slot 35 through which a clamp screw 36 passes into the lug on the enlargement. The welt guide which is formed from an angularly bent plate is secured atone end-by a screw 38 passing through a slot in the welt guide plate and into threaded engagement with the block 34. The other end of the welt guide plate is provided with a pair of side flanges between which is adjustably clamped a welt edge engaging member 4|] arranged to overlie the flesh surface of the Welt, a shoulder 42 beingformed to engage the edge of the welt and locate it within the guide. Along its central portion, the plate curves inwardly'past the edge of the enlargement on the stud 26 and enters a circular recess 43 in the feed roll 22. As a means for holding the edge of the welt being sewed in position, the enlargement atthe end of the stud has a forwardly projecting lug 44 which overlies the edge of the welt and also assists in guiding the needle as it enters the work.

The welt 8, as it passes through the guide, is

directed at an acute angle with relation to the portion of the upper which conforms with the sidesurface of the last and with the needle path indicated by the dot-dash lines 46 (Fig. 4), so that the needle will enter a stitch receiving groove 4'! of the usual form along the edge of the welt and willemerge'at or adjacent to the edge surface -of the welt which is supported against the needle thrust, in part by theportion of the upper conforming with the side I6 of the last and in part by the tensioned portion of the upper which gapes awayfromv the last. After the needle has penetrated the welt, the upper and thecanvas sheet, the loop formed by' the needle is transferred to the looper 32 and the needle retracted During the retracting stroke of the needle, the stitchbeing form'ed is set.

As each stitch isset, the pull on the thread exerted by the stitch forming devices including the looper 32 causes the welt, together with the upper, to be drawn around the break line of the last and onto the. tread surfaoeof the last, the grainsurface of the welt being broughtinto contact with that portion of the upper which is carried around the'break line onthe -last.- Since the needle is disengaged from the work, the work is no longer reinforced by the needle. The welt, inbeing drawn around the last break line, then causes the thread of the stitchbeing formed to be deflected so that the exposed portion of thread on the welt is displaced y from the needle path. As'ares'ult; the stitches are curved'in' a manner somewhat like those inserted by a curved} needle machine. I

If no welt is used in the construction'of the shoe, the outer surface of the welt guide-acts on the last conforming portion of the-upper and the adjustable mounting of the guide is-partic'u larly useful in regulating the distance between the bite of the upper tensioning rolls andthe break line of the last. To engage-the-last conforming portion of the upper surface witha suba stantial area of contact so as not'to injure the surface of the upper, the welt guide plate hasa round edged wing 4 8i extending towards theneedle path. The position of the welt guide-with respect to the upper is such that there is a suit-'1 able area of contact between the upper andthe (lower end of the wing 48,- theweltguide'being disposed at an angle with the line of 'feed both I horizontally and forwardlyand rearwardly of themachine.

By loosening the clamp screws. 36 and-38 the position of the welt guide may be changed sufficiently to accommodate a wide range of shoe styles and sizes, as well as thicknesses in thematerials operated upon; The adjustmentsof'the welt guide obtainable include-changes in position angularly about the clamp screw 38' which sets at right angles to the line of feed and angularly about the clamp screw:3 6 which is parallel to the axis of the feed roll stud 26; Also as a result of the slots through which the clamp screws pass, the weltchanging its angular positioniin directions both guide may be shifted without.

parallel to the feed roll stud as well as at right angles thereto. Such changes in position are useful when-sewingwelts, as well as when no] welt is employed to assist in presenting the upper and canvas sheet properly and with'the desired amount of tension whilesewing.- l

The nature and scope of th invention having been indicated, and a construction embodying the several .features of the invention having been specifically described, what is claimed isi I 1. A machine for lasting a-shoe upper andiate taching the upper and a welt to the marginal j portions of an unchanneledsole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread' sur face of a last having,-incombination stitch form'- ing devices operating along the break line formed by th angle between theside and tread surface of the last, means including. upper tensioning members on the machine for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper andsole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the point of operation of the stitch formingdevices, and means for directing a welt towards the point of operationof thestitch forming devices at such an angle that the welt is supported by the gaping portion of the upper against the action of the stitch forming devices and is drawn, together with the. upper,

chine for imparting a stretch to theupper' and sole member at a-distance from the last to cause the upper and solememberto gape .atthe tread" surface side of a the break line on the last ad- Vance of the patlr of the needle', and means-forj directing awelt-towards therneedle path at'su'ch an angle that the welt is supported by the 1 tensioned upper against'the thrust of the needle and is drawn. together with the'upper, around the-break li'neof the last'o'nto the treadisurface of the last by the pull ofthe stitches inserted by theneedle 3; A machine taching the upper and -a-"we lt to the-marginal portion of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread sur'-. face ofa last having, in comcmanan; stitch form-q ing devices. includinga needle-operating along the break line formed by the angle between th side and tread surfaces of the last'gumeans including upper tensioning members onthe-machine for imparting a stretch to theu'pper'and sole member at a distance from the last to'cause the upper and sole member to gape at-thetread surface side of the break line on the 'lastinadvance-of the: path of the needle, and means for directing a welt towards the point of; operation of the needle'at such an angle that oneedge surface of the welt is supported [against the thrust of the needle by the tensioned upper an-d'is drawn by the pull of the stitches insertedby theneedle around the break line'to aposition where the grain surfaceon the welt isb'rought'into contact with that portion of the upper which is carried around the break line on the last and the marginal portion of the upper forms an angular flange against the edge ofthe welt extending from the tread surface of the last. v I

'4. Aymachine for lasting a shoe upper'and-attaching the upper and a welt to ,theamarginal portion of an unchanneled sol'eim'ember of "relatively flexible material mounted on the tread-surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along the break-line formed by the angle between t the: side and tread surfaces ofth' e" last,- means including upper tensioning members on-jthe' machine for imparting a= stretch to' the upper and solel'member at a distance from the-last to cause v the upper and sole member to gape atth'etread surface side of theb'reak'line on the 'la'st'in'ad-v vance of the path of theneedle. and a guide for directing a welt towards the point of operation of the needle at such a location that the welt is supported against the thrust of the needle in" part by the last conforming'surface of the upper and in part by the gaping portion'of the upper and the welt is drawn by the pull of the stitches inserted by the needle around the break'nline onto the tread surface of' the last to form an angular flange of ,theupper-extending from they treadsurface on the last-with the'grain surface on thewelt in contact with that portio'n of the upper on the tread surface. 1

5. A machinefor lastinga shoe upperandattaching the upper and a welt to the marginal I portionof an unchanneled sole'memberofrela' tively flexible material mounted on thetread surface of a last having. in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along'the-break line formed by the angle between I the sideand'treadsurfaces of the last, means including upper tensioning members on the machine for imparting a stretchto the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause for lasting --a sh'oeupper andJ-atthe upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the path of the needle, and supporting and guiding means against which the last conforming surfaces of the sole member and upper are drawn by the upper tensioning members including a guide for directing a welt towards the point of operation of the needle so located that the welt is drawn by the pull of the stitches inserted by the needle around the break line of the last onto that portion of the upper supported by the tread surface of the last and the line of stitches exposed on the Welt is deflected out of the path of needle operation.

6. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of alast having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and means carried at one end of the roll supporting stud for directing a welt towards the needle path at such an angle that the welt is drawn by the pull of the stitches inserted by the needle around the break line of the last onto the tread surface, together with the upper.

7. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and a welt guide secured to one end of the roll supporting stud arranged to direct one edge of a welt into the needle path and with the other edge extending away from the upper tensioning rolls at an acute angle to the side surface of the last.

8. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support, and a welt guide secured to one end of the roll supporting stud arranged to conduct a welt towards the needle path and to act with the work support against the last conforming surfaces of the upper and sole member to resist the pull of the tensioning rolls.

9. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support, a disk-like enlargement at the end of the roll supporting stud, a guide on the enlargement arranged to direct a welt towards the needle path and to act with the work support against the last conforming surfaces of the upper and sole member to resist the pull of the upper tensioning rolls, and means for adjusting the guide to change the position of the break line on the last supported by the welt guide with respect to the needle path. v

10. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, a work support, and an adjustable guide secured to one end of the roll supporting stud arranged to act with the work support against the last conforming surfaces of the upper and sole member to resist the pull of the tensioning rolls.

11. A machine for lasting a shoe upper and attaching the upper and a welt to the marginal portions of an unchanneled sole member of relatively flexible material mounted on the tread surface of a last having, in combination, stitch forming devices including a needle operating along a path approximately parallel to the portions of the sole member supported by the tread surface of the last, means including upper tensioning rolls for imparting a stretch to the upper and sole member at a distance from the last to cause the upper and sole member to gape at the tread surface side of the break line on the last in advance of the needle path, a stud for supporting one of the tensioning rolls, and a welt guide secured to one end of the roll supporting stud and a lug on the stud for holding the edge of the welt being sewed in position.

LEONARD S. CURTIN. EDWARD W. KOLOSKE. 

